In the Beginning
Long before mesh, knit uppers, or foams, running shoes were tough, rudimentary tools. A leather or canvas upper, stiff sole, and minimal cushioning. As running boomed in the 1960s, pioneers like Amby Burfoot and Dave Kayser recall the limited choices available, shoes were heavy, hot, and unforgiving. The New Balance Trackster, with its rubber ripple sole and leather upper, was one of the first to make cushioning a priority, but breathability was an afterthought.
Foam Cushions
The 1970s marked a golden age of experimentation. Bowerman’s now-iconic Nike Cortez offered revolutionary dual-density foam for heel support, sparking a footwear arms race around cushioning and impact protection. Although many focus on the midsoles getting lighter, uppers were evolving, too. As brands like Adidas, Onitsuka Tiger (now Asics), and New Balance fought for relevance, leather gave way to nylon uppers. This shift wasn’t just about shaving weight, it was about freedom of movement, flexibility, and introducing runners to something they’d never felt before: airflow.
Asics ROTATION 72
While mesh was in early experimentation in road running, its impact was most felt on the court. In 1972, Onitsuka Tiger released the ROTATION 72, a volleyball shoe featuring a breathable mesh upper, a major shift from the stiff canvas commonly used at the time. The ROTATION 72 allowed for greater agility and airflow, which translated to real-world results as Japanese athletes wore the shoe to international success. Though it wasn’t a running shoe, the ROTATION 72 stands as one of the early landmarks in the move away from suffocating, heavyweight materials across all athletic footwear. It helped normalise mesh as a high-performance material, proving its benefits went beyond just the new found breathability but also enabled sharper cuts, quicker reactions, and ultimately, better performance. The lessons learned on the volleyball court would soon influence running shoes around the world.
The Rise of Mesh
Mesh was the natural evolution of nylon. First appearing in the 1970s, it offered superior breathability, helping runners manage sweat and heat more effectively. Unlike canvas or leather, mesh dried faster, weighed less, and flexed with the foot. Shoes like the Adidas SL-72 and Nike Boston used mesh strategically, often in panels, to balance structure with cooling. By the early 1980s, mesh had become standard in performance footwear. Shoes like the Brooks Vantage and Tiger X-Caliber GT combined breathable uppers with motion-control innovations like medial posts and dual-density midsoles. Mesh no longer just helped your foot breathe, it had become part of a system of performance design.
Biomechanics
Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, shoes evolved to meet the demands of different runners. Stability became a buzzword, and mesh became an essential part of controlling fit and stretch without compromising weight. As EVA and later Phylon midsoles dominated the cushioning game, mesh kept uppers light and dynamic. Still, shoes were getting bulkier. The 1990s brought a boundary pushing design era, with brands showcasing visible tech, Nike Air bubbles, Saucony Grid system, Asics GEL, all wrapped in more mesh than ever before. By then, the breathable look of mesh and the silhouette of a runner began infiltrating streetwear and fashion.
The Minimalist Rebellion
The 2000s brought some skepticism. Did all that tech actually prevent injury? Research suggested otherwise, and a new wave of runners turned to minimalist shoes like Vibram FiveFingers and Nike Free. These shoes ditched rigid structures in favor of natural foot motion, and you guessed it, ultra-thin mesh uppers. The split was huge but even maximalist shoes like HOKA, which launched with oversized midsoles, relied on mesh to reduce weight and allow airflow. Whether you were stripping back or cushioning up, mesh remained essential.
Engineered Mesh and Lifestyle Crossovers
Fast forward to the 2010s and beyond, and mesh enters its next phase: engineered mesh. No longer just a flat weave, mesh became dynamic, zoned for support, stretch, and structure. Brands like Nike (with Flyknit and later AtomKnit), Adidas (with Primeknit), and New Balance pushed mesh toward the peak of performance. This era marked a critical turning point: the running shoe became a fashion staple. The same shoes hitting the tarmac were now hitting the streets. The breathable look of mesh and the silhouette of a runner began infiltrating streetwear and high fashion, with mesh runners like the Nike Vomero 5, New Balance 2002R, and Asics GEL-Kayano 14 being worn purely for the aesthetic.
Mesh As Design Language
In 2025, mesh isn’t really about ventilation, it’s an aesthetic. Although it is still used in performance-forward pairs like the Nike Pegasus Turbo, the archival revival of Puma Speedcats, or the high-tech lean of On Running’s Cloudsurfer, mesh signals less about performance, agility, and breathability and more about heritage, comfort, and style. Mesh sneakers now exist in a dual world: high-performance tools for elite runners and fashion-forward statements for everyday wearers. They breathe history with every step, embodying decades of innovation, comfort, and cultural relevance.
Conclusion:
From overlooked detail to design centerpiece, mesh changed the space. It helped runners stay cool in a marathon, and now helps trendsetters stay cool on the street. As performance tech continues to evolve, one thing remains true: mesh isn’t going anywhere. It’s woven into both the history and the future of sneaker culture.
