Joshua Samuels has built his design language around taking garments apart and putting them back together in unexpected ways. For the London-based designer’s latest release, the Excessary Collection, that approach becomes a statement about fashion’s relationship with excess. Launching exclusively through Joshua Samuels on 29 October 2026 at 6pm, the collection transforms pre-loved clothing into four new silhouettes, made to order by hand in East London.
The name combines “excess” and “necessary”, reflecting a simple contradiction at the heart of the project. With more clothing already in circulation than we realistically need, Joshua Samuels sees greater value in reworking existing garments than producing new fabric. Each piece begins with carefully selecting vintage clothing, preserving its original graphics, colours, fading and signs of wear while giving it an entirely different purpose.
Three Hoodies, One Garment
The Triple Hood takes three vintage team zip-up hoodies and combines them into a single piece. One hoodie forms the main body, sleeves and back, while the other two are deconstructed and integrated into the front. The result features three functioning zips, three hoods and overlapping layers that can be opened, closed and styled in different ways.
Despite ita unusual construction, the garment keeps the silhouette of a hoodie. Its details, however, turn a staple piece into something more experimental. Available in Mix Grey and Multi, every version is one of one, with original team graphics, colours, fading and vintage details determining the final look.
The Triple Shirt Rewrites a Classic
That same principle goes for the Triple Shirt, which merges three vintage shirts into one garment. One shirt provides the main body, sleeves and back, while sections of two others create the layered front. Three collars, three button plackets and three functional sets of buttons make the construction pretty much impossible to ignore.
Getting the combinations just right requires careful selection. Checks, stripes, colours, patterns and original details, everything must work together. No two shirts are identical, and the variations inherent in vintage clothing ensure that every finished garment carries its own characteristics.
Four Flannels Become the Four Flannel Tee
The Four Flannel Tee pushes the collection into a more expansive silhouette. Each piece starts with a vintage white graphic T-shirt, keeping its original artwork across its central front and back panels. Joshua Samuels then cuts and reconstructs four vintage flannel shirts, introducing six additional panels that extend the sides, sleeves and under-sleeve sections.
That results in an oversized T-shirt that combines two wardrobe staples while disrupting the proportions of both. Uneven flannel lengths create a layered hem, and the colours, checks and graphics vary from one piece to the next. Rather than treating the original garments as raw materials to be erased, the design allows their histories to remain visible.
The process also considers what happens to the fabric that remains. The team does not use four complete flannel shirts for every T-shirt, keeping the remaining sections for other pieces in the collection. That approach leads directly to the next design.
Funny Fam Jeans
Joshua Samuels’ signature Funny Fam Jeans are back with new materials. Each pair starts with two vintage Levi’s 501 jeans, deconstructed and reconstructed into the label’s wider silhouette, with additional volume introduced through the inside leg. Original fading, wear and imperfections remain part of the finished design.
For this edition, the jeans feature flannel offcuts from the Four Flannel Tee. Patches are sewn onto the denim or positioned behind distressed sections, allowing checks and colours to emerge through the worn areas. Intentional darning, visible repairs and reconstructed hems continue the label’s established approach, while unpicked hems expose the original denim’s fading and wear patterns.
Made to Order in East London
The Excessary Collection is small by design, but its construction demands time and attention. Each order is picked up garment by garment, with the pieces cut sewn and finished by hand in Joshua Samuels’ East London studio. Working with true vintage clothing means that original graphics, colours fabrics and signs of age naturally differ, making each finished garment unique.
The collection launches exclusively at Joshua Samuels on Thursday, 29 October, 2026, at 6pm.
